A Day in Albania

I used Albania as a starting point for my tour. I heard great things about Albania and how it is going to be the next Greece or Croatia, but more affordable. I wanted to dedicate an entire vacation next time so I am only visiting Tirana and a few cities that are a part of the Balkans tour. I hope to return next year and do a tour around Albania. 

Getting Around

Tirana is the capital of Albania. The city is quite congested and difficult to get around. There are bus stations that service many cities in Albania and its surrounding countries. Taxi is the primary form of transportation. There are no rideshare companies in the country. With that said, taxis are regulated here. The meter is always running, but generally, the prices are the same and payment is in cash. Taxis in Albania are quite expensive. There are taxi apps that can be downloaded such as Speed Taxi and UPs Taxi. Both credit cards and cash can be used as a form of payment through the app. 

Renting a car may be the most economical way to travel around Albania but Tirana can be a difficult city to drive in due to the congestion. Outside of Albania, driving is not terrible, especially during the off-season. But do note that parking may also be an issue. Most people will park anywhere they can. 

March 15, 2024: Tirana

Destination:

1. Tirana city center

Skanderberg Square is one of the main squares in Tirana. There are several historical landmarks including the Skanderbeg Monument. Gjergi Skanderberg is Albania’s national hero and a statue of him can be found all over Albania. The Orthodox Cathedral, National Opera, City Hall, and the Clock Tower are all located near this square. 

2. Tirana Castle

The Tirana Castle is not your average castle. Most of the original building is no longer here. The only part that remains is the Justinian Fortress Wall. The castle has been converted into a bazaar with handcrafted items and restaurants inside. 

3. BunkArt 2 Museum

BunkArt 2 is a museum built inside of a large nuclear bunker. The Ministry of Internal Affairs used the bunker during the communist regime. The museum tells the dark story of what life was like when the Albanian communist military and political police (Sigurimi) took control. About 100,000 Albanians were persecuted. There are audio recordings from prisoners who survived this gruesome regime. Entrance to BunkArt 2 is 700ALL cash only. An absolutely must visit.

Our driver told us later on on our trip about communism in Albania. He told us that during elections, people did not know who to vote for. A lot of people live in villages and do not believe it would impact them. Little did they know that communism would take power and everyone who voted against the party was killed or thrown in prison. 

Where to Eat: 

Lunch: Lezet Turkish

→ Murat Toptani St, Tirana, Albania

Letzet Turkish is one of many restaurants located inside Tirana Castle. Inside the castle were mostly Italian restaurants. There is a large Italian population in Albania. At the time, we did not know that and felt that the menu was too “touristy” for us. We decided to try out Letzet Turkish. I ordered the only Albanian dish on the menu, Jufka with chicken (750ALL) and a delicious cocktail, caipirosca (500ALL). The food here is pretty decent but in no way felt authentic. 

Dinner: Doanesia hotel restaurant

For dinner, we ate at our hotel. The food and service were terrible. It is not worth discussing about. 

Where to Stay: 

Doanesia Hotel and Spa

→ Rruga Kastriotet 5, Tiranë 1050, Albania

I stayed at Doanesia Hotel for about $60 a night. Doanesia Hotel is located across the street from the bus station. The front desk workers were helpful and kind. The beds are extremely comfortable! I wish I could bring the bed home with me. The disadvantage is that the hotel is 3 miles from the city center. Traffic here is insane! It costs about €15 one way to get from the hotel to the main square. 

March 16, 2024: Shkoder

Destination:

1. Mesi Bridge

The Mesi Bridge is the largest bridge in Albania from the Ottoman period. The bridge has not been maintained and is not considered a major attraction at the moment. The bridge is free to walk across and visit but my tour guide thinks that will change in the future. I enjoyed the authenticity of the bridge and was glad that I got to see it when it was organically “maintained”. 

2. Rozafa Castle

The Rozafa Castle is a beautiful castle that sits on a hill overlooking Shkoder city. I highly suggest coming here when it opens at 9am to avoid any crowd and to find parking. There is limited parking at the base of the castle and many people park in the neighborhoods. The farther you park, the farther you have to walk uphill to the castle. It costs 400ALL to enter the castle.

The legend of how the castle was built is a sad one.

The story: Three brothers were building the castle to protect the town but the castle kept falling apart. One day, a wise man told them that in order to prevent the castle from collapsing, one of the brothers must sacrifice their wives. The first wife to bring the husband lunch the next day must be buried within the castle’s walls. The two older brothers told their wife the story so they did not bring their husbands lunch. Rozafa, the wife of the youngest brother brought him lunch. Her husband told her that she was to be sacrificed in order to complete the castle. Rozafa accepted her fate under one condition: the brothers were to leave a hole for her right breast so her newborn son could feed, another hole for her right hand to caress him, and a third hole for her right foot to cradle him. The castle never collapsed.

3. Shkoder City Center

Shkoder is a charming, affordable, and lively city. The city center is a strip filled with restaurants. It kind of reminds me of the inside of a Las Vegas hotel with its outside seating and street lamps. I was here late at night and was surprised to see how many people were gathered around at the cafe. My tour guide told us that in Albania, it is normal to work 6 days a week, Monday to Saturday. I was shocked that even on a weekday, people were still out and about. 

4. Elbasan Castle

I visited Elbasan Castle on the way back to Tirana after our tour. In its glory days, Elbasan Castle had over 900 shops and more than 2,000 houses. The castle still contains many residents and a few shops. I only visited the castle briefly and saw a small portion including a mosque and a few shops. This portion was free to visit. 

Where to Eat:

Dinner in Shkoder: Country Club Bar & Grill

→ Rruga Kolë Idromeno, Shkodër, Albania

In Shkoder, we went to one of the restaurants on the main promenade, Country Club Bar & Grill. We ordered pizza. The food was mediocre but a great place to people-watch.

Where to Stay:

Hotel Tradita

→ Rruga Edith Durham 13, Shkodër 4001, Albania

I have to admit that Hotel Tradita was my favorite hotel during my entire trip. The hotel had an authentic Albanian feel. The room was spacious. Our balcony overlooked the terrace. A night stay here is $97 but it was included in our tour.